Nearly every popular surfing beach you go to in Costa Rica is full of people. At Playa Tamarindo, you need to watch out if you’re a swimmer for oncoming boards. At Playa Hermosa, the waves are more for the pros. To find a less crowded surfing beach in Costa Rica, you’ll have to explore a little.
We found one of these beaches during a trip to Jaco, Playa Esterillos Oeste. Esterillos actually consists of three sections: Esterillos Oeste, Centro and Este stretching down the Central Pacific coast with Oeste as the most popular out of the three. Though the entire area of Esterillos is fairly big, Esterillos Oeste town is very small and rural and the beach is not very crowded.
If Jaco isn’t your scene (it’s a big party surf town) but you still want to visit a beach in the Central Pacific, head over to Playa Esterillos Oeste. Here is our guide to visiting this beach town.
Map
Esterillos Oeste map
Esterillos Oeste is 122 kilometers (76 miles) from San Jose, a 2 hour drive. It is 15 miles (24 kilometers) and a 25 minute drive from Jaco.
How to get to Esterillos Oeste
You can get to Playa Esterillos Oeste by taking the Route 27 highway and Costanera Sur from San Jose, it is about 20 minutes south from Playa Jaco. From Liberia, you will want to go on the Interamericana highway then Route 27 and exit at the Jaco/Manuel Antonio exit and continue south from there. There is one toll booth for 180 colones.
The entrance to Playa Esterillos Oeste is on the right hand side and you can’t miss it, there is a huge sign of a mermaid. Make sure you turn at Oeste since there is also a Esterillos town and Playa Esterillos Este which is different.
4×4 Required?
From both San Jose and Liberia, it is all on a well paved road except for when you turn into the beach town entrance. This road becomes unpaved but you won’t need a 4×4. The pot holes do get bigger in rainy season but a 4×4 is not necessary.
It is highly recommended to rent a car if you are visiting this beach or area as it is hard to get around without one. There aren’t a ton of restaurants or big supermarkets right in town and there aren’t a lot of taxis.
If you drive, make sure not to leave belongings in your car and never leave your belongings alone at the beach.
Playa Esterillos Oeste Beach
Playa Esterillos Oeste beach has dark sand and dark blue waters with constant waves. It’s not that nice for swimming but ideal for surfing. Palm trees line the long coast of Esterillos and you will see many local families playing in the sand and tide pools.
Although this beach may not have white sand or crystal clear turquoise waters, it offers an unforgettable experience for visitors with its empty shores, fun waves and beautiful views. It’s definitely somewhere to go for those who want to stay at a non-touristic beach town in Costa Rica!
This beach is also very clean and has lovely sunsets.
Can you swim?
Esterillos Oeste is a surfing beach but you can splash around and have fun in the shallow waves.
Esterillos Oeste Mermaid statue
Besides surfing, Playa Esterillos Oeste is famous for one other interesting characteristic: a mermaid statue. Yes, I said that right. There is an Ariel (or one of her sisters) living in Costa Rica! If you head to the north end of the beach, you’ll see her looking out into the water. During low tide, you can actually walk all the way up to her for a photo.
I asked the locals what her name was and her history but no one knew. They call her vagabunda (homeless woman) because for as long as they can remember, she’s been sitting out in the water all day and night.
Playa Esterillos Oeste Town
Esterillos town is very small, as in the typical small Costa Rican beach town with unpaved roads, one or two small pulperias (convenience stores) and a couple of restaurants. However, this town is incredibly interesting.
It’s still very rural and undeveloped but since last time we visited in 2014, it has grown quite a bit. More and more foreigners know where this little beach town is. Even the city Costa Ricans go to this beach for a weekend getaway since it’s only about a 1.5 hour drive from San Jose. I personally have a feeling that this town will be seeing a substantial amount of development in the near future.
Tourists that don’t like the commercialism of Jaco are drawn to Esterillos since it still has the feeling of a rustic Costa Rica beach town where chickens crow all day and night, cows and horses roam freely in the pasture next door and police cars are nowhere to be seen.
Though most of the people who live in Esterillos Oeste are all locals, there are some foreigners as well. And you can clearly see the line separating the locals and foreigners as you will notice big luxury houses and condos up in the hills or gated communities, all inhabited by foreigners.
Playa Esterillos Oeste Hotels
When it comes to lodging, you won’t find any luxury or upscale places. There are a few campsites and you will mostly rustic or budget – mid range places to stay. As most of the visitors to this area are there to enjoy the beach or surf, the hotels in Esterillos Oeste are basic but comfortable.
We stayed at Hotel La Dolce Vita which is right on the beach with secure parking and very cozy suite like rooms. The rooms had a small kitchen, living space and separate bedroom area.
Airbnb is getting more popular in Costa Rica (get $40 here) and you can find some nice rooms and apartments in town. We booked a room through Airbnb at the Teak Boutique Hotels with a super cozy common area, hammocks, kitchen and nicely remodeled rooms.
The only thing about this place is that there isn’t a secured parking lot. We didn’t feel comfortable leaving our Mitsubishi Montero Sport on the street at night so we left it at the La Sirena Hotel which has a large secure parking lot.
You can find some vacation rentals up in the mountains outside of Esterillos, owned by foreigners who rent out their house or property.
Playa Esterillos Oeste Restaurants
There aren’t a ton of dining options in Esterillos Oeste but the one place you have to visit is the Los Almendros restaurant for yummy Caribbean and local food.
For sodas, there are several in town. Sod Margherita and Soda Ana are two excellent ones and cheap. For 2 typical breakfasts with coffee, we paid $11 at Playa Margherita which is right on the beach where the mermaid statue is.
Things to do
Though there aren’t a ton of things to do in Playa Esterillos Oeste itself except relaxing at the beach and surfing, there are many things to do in the area. You can also go horseback riding, visit the other beaches or take a day trip to Manuel Antonio if you’re using Esterillos Oeste as a home base.
Playa Esterillos Oeste’s serene atmosphere, laid back surfing vibe and rural town attracts visitors who aren’t interested in a touristic beach town so if that is what you’re looking for during your Costa Rica trip, then this is a great place for you to visit.
Read about other beaches in Costa Rica here!
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Valerie says
Love this! Looking into moving to Costa. Great information. My mom lives in Jaco.
Sammi says
Awesome! Hope it works out for you 🙂
Hempsoft says
Great blog its very informative thanks for sharing.
Lynn says
Hi
We are planning a trip to Esterillo but can’t decide to stay in Oueste or Este??
We have found a house to rent in Este (the furthest end away, towards Bejuco).
Will we be too far away from restaurants, etc?
We like quiet but also prefer to walk to food stores, restaurants, etc.
Thanks for your help.
Sammi says
Either one is fine, you will have to walk/drive a little bit to get to restaurants (there’s only a few in Esterillos) anyways.
Jean-Yves Fillion says
Hi Guys, just returned from Costa Rica and it was AMAZING ! We were in Esterillos Oeste and stayed at the Dolce Vita hotel by the beach. Fell in love with the place.We will be back for sure. Loved the ppl there. Food is amazing,the beaches are incredible. Rented a car from Adobe was great no issues at all.Great service.
Sammi says
Hi Jean-Yves! I’m so glad to hear that! That beach is so nice for quiet getaways and that hotel is perfect for a beach vacay. So glad you had an amazing trip!
Rose says
Thanks for your review about Esterillos!
What type of activities can you do? and where do you go to schedule those?
Sammi says
Hi Rose, the most popular thing to do at ESterillos is surfing since it has good waves for beginners. You can rent a surfboard, there are some surf places and your hotel may have some for rent.
Sammi says
Hi Jean-Yves, I recommend reading this post: Costa Rica weather
🙂
Jean-Yves Fillion says
Hi, I will be there at the Hotel La dolce vita from the 28th of september to the 6th of october.
My question is what type of weather will i have ?
Thanks.
P.S. your website is a great idea !!!
Erika says
Hi!
I am have in been in Monteverde for almost a month and am loving it but I could really use some beach time! I was hoping you could give me some suggestions on easy-ish places to get to from Monteverde that are good swimming beaches for kids. While sticking to a budget 😉
Best,
Erika
yeison says
HI Ericka
From Monteverde Puntarenas is the closest their beaches are not as nicer as teh Guanacaste ones but it is an option.
If you want to go to Guancaste I think one of the best options could be playas del coco there are nice beaches around and the waves are not that big.
April W says
How are the waves for an avid surfer? My husband surfs a lot and I am looking for a low key place for the family where dad can catch good surf. Rights, lefts??? Thanks for the info.
Sammi says
Esterillos is a popular spot for locals and for other foreigners who aren’t looking to surf the big ones at Jaco and Hermosa. They’re not huge waves but not so small that experienced surfers won’t enjoy it. Definitely will keep an avid surfer happy and if he feels the itch to ride bigger waves, Jaco is just 20 minutes away!
Laura says
I just realized I never thanked you for this awesome (and quick!) response!! I really appreciate your help and this info was so helpful as we were trying to decide where to book. Looks like we’ll be staying in EO for just over 2 weeks – we can’t wait!! 🙂
Sammi says
Oh you are very welcome! That is super exciting, I really loved that area. I’m sure you and your family will have a wonderful time 🙂
Laura Rhea says
gorgeous pictures and I just loved your descriptions!! I am thinking of renting a house near there when our family visits CR for the first time later this fall. I’ve gotten concerned, though, that maybe the beach there is unsafe for swimming? We have a 6, 4 and 2 year-old. None of us will go very far out in the water, but what is your opinion? Did you see many families taking kids in the water?
Thanks 🙂 (and thanks for the great write-up!)
Sammi says
Hi Laura! I did see a few families around the water. This beach is great for surfers, especially beginners and the waves aren’t as big as Jaco or Hermosa. I think as long as you don’t go out to where the waves break and your children are with you at all times, they can enjoy the water. It’s a really nice beach with a good mix of locals and tourists. Hope you have a great trip to CR! 🙂
Constance - Foreign Sanctuary says
Love the sunset pictures!! And beautiful lonely beaches is my idea of paradise! I could sit and enjoy the view forever!
Sammi says
Agreed! Love empty beaches!
frankaboutcroatia says
Playa Esterillos Oeste looks like a wonderful place to visit. I am always in search of places with less crowd, and more of a local feel. To have a beach almost only for yourself I consider a true luxury.
Sammi says
Same, I much prefer local beaches with less crowds! A rare gem for sure 🙂
Stacey Veikalas says
This looks like an amazing place to visit ~ I am always looking for local beautiful beaches! Really Great post and adding this place to my wish list!
Sammi says
Thanks Stacey! We loved it, it’s a great beach that isn’t packed with tourists which is nice!
SJ @ Chasing the Donkey says
Ohhh that sunset, how divine. I mean a beach with no crowds is awesome… but ohhh laaa laaa I want that sunset with a cocktail in my hand. Thanks for linking up with us again for #SundayTraveler
Sammi says
it’s pretty spectacular! 🙂
Ashley @ A Southern Gypsy says
Ohhh this places looks gorgeous–especialyl since Tennessee just went through a minor snowstorm–to us it was a huge snowstorm haha
Sammi says
Oh man! You need to hop on a plane to get some sun 🙂 This snow season is lasting forever!
Ashley @ A Southern Gypsy says
Thanks for linking up to the #SundayTraveler 🙂
Angela Travels says
Looks like a wonderful place to visit. Sometimes the typical paradise destinations are a little too overpopulated for me. It is great that Ariel also watches over the beach. It was one of my favorite Disney movies growing up!
yeison says
yes it is a great place to visit, on low tide you can go and take a picture next to Ariel 🙂