It’ll be my one year anniversary since moving to Costa Rica next month and looking back, I feel like a whole new person. Life is always different in a new country, even the littlest things you never noticed before and it does take some time to get used to.
It’s not just about culture shock, it’s just about normal daily living. So as a fun way to look back at my first year in Costa Rica, here are some things I had to get used to living in Costa Rica.
Things I had to get used to living in Costa Rica
1. Showering with cold water
In the states, I lived in a very cold part of the country so hot water was a must unless you wanted to lose some toes. Here at the beach, it’s so hot that we shut off the hot power breaker completely and we race to take a cold shower to cool us off.
2. Hearing creatures at all hours of the day
The only thing I ever heard at night before was cats and my dog barely barked. But in Costa Rica, it’s incredibly common to hear geckos chirping, roosters crowing morning, afternoon and night, and monkeys. We have a troop of howlers living in the tree outside our apartment and the male is loud (they are the loudest land animal).
When it rains, he howls. When the dog barks, he howls. When he wants to, he howls. Not to mention the birds, birds chirping at 3 AM, birds chirping all afternoon. Yup, Costa Rica is a jungle. Talk about being as close to the wildlife as you can get!
3. Having creatures in my house
I never was really scared of spiders or insects but I’m not a huge fan of them in my house. Here, I’m used to seeing all sorts of creepy crawleys chilling in my living room and instead of killing them, I just throw them outside.
I’ve had plenty of sugar ants, geckos, spiders of all kinds, moths, those giant beetles that always flip on their back and die, centipedes, ladybugs, and the worst, scorpions. It’s too tiring to always scream “Oh my god!” every time I see a bug because I’d be screaming all day so now I’m just like “Eh, I’ll take you outside later.”
One insect I’m not that nice to? Cockroaches. If you’re a cockroach in my house, sorry you’re not in luck!
4. The driving
Actually, the driving here isn’t as bad as some other countries I’ve been to but for someone from the states who is used to driving inside the lines, using blinkers and yielding, it can be a real shocker. Ticos love to drive fast and they’ll pass you at any chance they get.
Yeison does pretty much all the driving since he grew up driving in San Jose (he is a very safe driver) but even at a small beach town, it takes some practice to swerve between bulls, chickens, bikes, dogs and people who like to meander in the middle of the road.
5. Not always sure if there is water/power
Even this morning as I write my post, we are low on water and the power has been flickering. It’s become normal to wake up in the morning, check the faucets and notice that the power turned off in the middle of the night. We always have plenty of flashlights and an extra bottle of water just in case.
When it rains really hard, we always expect the electricity to go out. Hey, it’s Costa Rica and in Coco it rains like 3 months of the year. It happens and if you live here, you just gotta learn how to deal with it.
6. 8 digit phone numbers
This one isn’t that big of a deal but it did throw me off the first time I was here. The first few times people gave me their numbers I ended up losing it because I thought I made a mistake and added an extra number.
Oh how ignorant I was. So if someone from Central America gives you a 8 digit number, it’s correct. They also don’t have zip codes, just country codes.
7. Going from surrounded by Asians, to being the only one
Growing up in Washington and attending UW meant that I was one of many – 30% of the undergrad population was Asian. In truth, I have more Asian friends and I barely grew up white-washed so to come to Coco where I am one of two Asians (the other is my Filipino friend) was a big change for me.
All the locals recognize me super easily, call me “chinita” and stare. But hey, I’m used to it now. Technically I’m one of two and a half – Yeison is half Korean after all.
8. Never sleeping in
I love to sleep. My friends used to tease me all the time about sleeping in so late but here, I’m up by 7AM, even on the weekends. The sun is bright and rises early so it’s kind of impossible to sleep with all that light shining in your face. We used to get up around 530 to walk so waking up at 8AM is like majorly sleeping in for us.
I also had to get used to the same sunrise and sunset every single day. Growing up in a place where we had four very distinct seasons, I was used to changes every few months. It was an adjustment getting used to it being dark by 6 pm every day!
9. Laundry
In the States, I used a washer and dryer and only hung a few of my clothes inside. In Costa Rica, using a dryer is fairly expensive and so everybody hangs their clothes. We hang our clothes outside since we don’t have a designated laundry room in our apartment and it’s just more eco-friendly to do so.
During rainy season, I try to gauge whether it’ll stay sunny enough to dry and if I hear thunder, I’m running outside to bring in our clothes.
10. Leaving doors and windows open
Our apartment gets pretty hot and humid so we have all the windows and doors open during the day. Also the landlord never installed screens on the door so we had to construct our own to keep the bugs out.
Although it’s not as safe anymore, we used to sleep with the window open as well but now we just use fans. Back in the States, it was too cold to open the windows and only did for the few times it was very hot during the summer.
11. Addresses
Back in the States we have this lovely address system where each house has a house number, each street has a street name, and names for neighborhoods.
For example, the address for the new Facebook corporate office is 1601 Willow Road, Menlo Park, CA 94205.
In Costa Rica, they haven’t quite developed this system yet so if you’re looking for the bus station, the address will be something like this. 50 km east of the old green church, 20 km west of the yellow supermarket, on the corner between Treehouse Apartments and the gas station. Not exactly what I was used to before!
I’ve had a lot of fun adapting to a new culture, meeting all different kinds of people and learning a different way of living. I think living in Costa Rica has taught me a lot, given me a new perspective on life and made me incredibly appreciative of what I have.
Enjoy some more of my expat stories here!
What are some things you had to adapt to for a new life in Costa Rica or anywhere else? Share them in the comments below!
Charlotte Apperley says
great responses so far; we’re planning to retire when hubby retires from the military next year(we’re 58 & 60, respectively); we already bought land in Guanacaste(3rd visit) on which we hope to build a house; can you connect me to a Canadian community where i can learn how they spend their evenings
Sammi says
Congrats on buying your land, there is a big Canadian community in Playas del Coco, I think you can join the Playas del Coco Expat Facebook group to connect. We usually see a lot of them at the Coconutz Bar in Coco for happy hour 😉
Laura says
Hi Sammi ~ So glad I stumbled across your website! Great info. I live in Seattle (also a UW Husky…go Dawgs!) and am selling my home here with plans to permanently relocate to Costa Rica later this year. I’ve been there several times in the past 20 years and bought land on the southern Pacific coast in Ojochal 15 years ago. Decided it’s time to take the big leap, build a house on my lot and embrace a simpler lifestyle away from a big city. Your essay on “What I had to get used to” was fun to read and helpful as well. Same for your writings about living expenses etc. The more info I have about what to expect, the better. Thanks for sharing your insight!
Sammi says
Hi Laura, thanks for reading and good luck with your move 🙂
DONALD WIDENER says
Laura- just curious.. did you move to Costa Rica and if so.. how do you like it.. Me and my wife are in our early 70’s and thinking of moving there from Augusta Ga.
Eric says
What about accessing your money and monthly income. Getting your money from US to CR?
Sammi says
I stopped working in the US when I moved so I brought cash and then used my credit card for everything else. Some people open up a bank account in Costa Rica if they plan to stay long term.
Steve says
You pretty much nailed it. We lived in Playa Hermosa but just moved back to the US this year. Our electric bill was the biggest expense. It rarely was under $300 per month. We didnt have the more efficient room AC, so we could either cool the upstairs or downstairs and even then we kept the temp at 85. Much depends on the microclimate. Higher up you get better airflow and cooler breezes off the ocean. Likewise if you are right off the beach, but further away you get areas of dead air, and unfortunately more mosquitos – something you really need to take seriously there since Dengue and chickwatever are very real. Some places do not have screens and I’d stay away from those.
Sammi says
Yeah electricity here is unfortunately quite expensive but it’s so necessary in Guanacaste, especially in dry season. It gets hot hot hot! One of our friends lived in a house on a small hill up in Hermosa and even being that small distance higher, they were able to get nice air flow and not have to use the AC as much as we did being exactly sea level. That happened to us too! Our AC upstairs was not efficient at all so we’d cool the downstairs and only go upstairs at night and use our fans. We just put in a new AC in our apartment now and it’s so much more efficient.
Anne says
Not an expat, just a visitor.
But how about the gates and multiple locks?
Pedestrians sharing the streets with cars?
All the rice and beans?
All the tourists?
Difficulty in shopping in some areas? High prices, lack of variety.
PUDA VIDA I still love this place!
Sammi says
It’s all about adapting to different situations and that’s the fun part (I think) about living abroad. It’s not for everybody which is perfectly fine. You grow to appreciate everything else you love a lot more and the pros greatly outweigh the cons if you love it.
Star Smith says
I moved here from Georgia on December 30th, 2016. I have three dogs and two cats and, while the cats had a slight delay, we have all made the trip with little wear. I was a teacher and school psychologist who became really sick and tired of the school politics. I actually started a book about my decision and what led me to Costa Rica. I teach at an international school and have a home that is 400 steps from the beach. At this time, my house payment is HUGE because I will have it paid off in 4 years. There are no mortgages and it is up to the mercy of the home owner as to how you will pay. Because I have pets and want to retire with no mortgage, I chose buying a home. Coco is expensive but I am learning where to go and what NOT to buy. It is definitely a learning curve but the school is fantastic and my German Shepherd loves the beach!
Kelly Brown says
HI Sammi,
After reading all the posts, I’m even more excited about exploring Costa Rica for our retirement destination! We are really hoping to find a place that is very rural that offers rustic living quarters nearest a beach. We have even thought about a “thatched hut” type of place. I’m not sure how realistic that is though in Costa Rica. Can you please offer any advice on rural beach places where we might find some place like what we’re looking for? We plan on coming down to explore and visit this next spring!
Thanks so much!!! Kelly
Sammi says
Hi Kelly, if you are looking for somewhere that rural, I suggest looking down in the Osa Peninsula particularly the beach towns of Matapalo and that area. That is probably one of the most rural places in CR, it takes about an hour on a horribly bumpy road from Puerto Jimenez and it is not really a town, just a collection of hotels/hostels and few businesses, I’m not sure if there is even a bank in Matapalo. It’s a popular place for surfers and I’m not sure how many places there are for rent around there but it’s worth looking if you want something that rural.
I honestly don’t even know where you can rent a thatched hut since Costa Rica is pretty developed and you can find all sorts of apartments, condos and houses here. Even in Matapalo or the less developed beach towns you can find simple apartments. But you can find many beach towns that aren’t super touristic and semi-developed. Hope you enjoy your trip to Costa Rica 🙂
Lee in Denver says
Great article Sammi! Just got back from my first (but NOT my last) trip to Costa Rica and your article really stuck several chords. You really do have to get used to the sunrise/sunset schedule and there are barking dogs all night and then you wake up with the birds at 5:30 a.m. But, then you’re up to drink the fine coffee while watching the morning monkeys or parakeets. The spiders we saw while staying on a coffee plantation will haunt my dreams, but the rest is totally tolerable. Not a single mosquito in two weeks, probably due to all of the wonderful hummingbirds taking care of them. But, it’s all good because it’s just so beautiful and the people are so warm and friendly. Thanks again for the great article. Pura Vida!
Sammi says
Hi Lee, thanks for reading and glad you could relate! Good to hear you had such a great time in Costa Rica 🙂
Sammi says
Hi Kathleen, yes you can bring your cat. We have a post about how to take your pet to Costa Rica:Taking your pet to Costa Rica
Kathleen Krenek says
I am seriously thinking of moving to CR. Are pet cats excepted much?
James says
Just a few questions…love your posts. How hard is it to buy a scooter or car in CR? Is it difficult to own a car there (paperwork, etc)? Is a license test required? Would you happen to know the details of the Retiree Citizenship option? What are your thoughts on the Tamarindo area? Sorry for all the questions, but thanks in advance for all your help!
Sammi says
Hi James, it’s not hard to buy a scooter or car here. You just need to make sure to check it out thoroughly and have a lawyer do all the paperwork for the passing of the title and things like that. There are a few car websites like crautos where you can find used cars and if you don’t know Spanish, it’s helpful to find someone who does or buy it from a foreigner. There are also “garage sale” Facebook groups where people post the stuff they sell (search for Tamarindo garage sale on FB). There are a lot of resources on the Internet about the Retiree residency (not citizenship). As for Tamarindo, we enjoy it. It’s touristic but it means there’s always something to do. Good luck!
Sammi says
Hi Audie, the town with the most expats near San Jose is Grecia – you can read more about it here: Grecia
Audie says
We are retired and are going to visit CR, Belize and Portugal. My no.1 is CR in the mountainous areas (for the weather). Which smallish town or close to a small town, near San Jose has the most US expats? Looking for a safe area and will rent before buying. We are planning a trip very soon…August or Sept 2016. Any info is appreciated.
Audie
Toni says
Hi Sammi,
I’m planning on going to the Intercultura Spanish Immersion school in Samara for 3 months (from mid Sept to mid Dec). Do you know anything about renting in Samara? Basically everything that I’ve found online (looking through vrbo, airbnb, lists on the school’s website) has been at least $1000/month for a one bedroom house/apartment. Do you think there are cheaper options that aren’t listed online I could find once I get there? Would appreciate any insite you have! Thanks!
Sammi says
Hi Toni, unfortunately I don’t. We have never lived in Samara. It is true that most of the places listed online are generally more $$ than if you go in person but if you’re only renting for one month, it’ll be more expensive. Rent is generally cheaper of you rent long term at least 6 months or more. $1000 is about average for what I know of for one month rent in the beach towns.
Rhonda Crosswhite says
Look on Craigs List
Carol Cox says
Very interesting! Thanks for sharing this information. Are there some retirees there? have you visited Panama? How does it compare to Costa Rica?
steve says
,hi really enjoyed reading your exp my wife is from elsalvador and really wants to move to costa rica we in oregon now and i have lived in wa as well we might try to open some kind of cafe or street food related buisness as we both have that background well thanks keep up the great info
Sammi says
Good luck with your move!
Karree says
Again I keep finding great information on your site. Thanks for being here . I Look forward to meeting the two of you someday 😉
Pura Vida
Sammi says
Hi Karree, thanks for reading! Pura vida!
Kirsten says
I know this is a really old blog post at this time but i clicked to it from another blog post. I didn’t know you were from WA and went to UW! I did as well! What a change from WA weather! I have gone from Seattle to NYC to phx and now the beach in San Diego. I follow your blog on Facebook. We love CR too, and we were just down there with our son a few months ago. Heading back for our third trip in October for my 40th. Love reading your stories! Take care!
Sammi says
Hey Kirsten! That’s awesome, a fellow Husky! 🙂 Haha, you went from quite a change as well, west to east coast and now back to the west coast on the beach. I loved San Diego, it’s so beautiful there! Thanks for the comment and hopefully we can cross paths one day, I have yet to meet another fellow Husky here! Take care 🙂
Caroline Stenzler says
I also have MS. How handicap-friendly is Costa Rica?
Sammi says
In the city it is fairly handicap friendly. But once you get out of the city it’s not as much
Vic says
My wife has MS and takes copaxone. What can you expect in the way of prescription meds and how does it compare to the US?
Nancy says
Oh, also met with an immigration attorney who was recommended by many locals to get my pensionado residency started! I don’t want to mess around with border runs, and the cost seemed to offset the hassle every 90 days. Only a few more months here in the Midwest….
Nancy says
I was just in Coco for 6 days to do a “due diligence” tour with a couple from the U.S. who have lived in the area for 8 years. They introduced me to a lot of people, including a local doctor and dentist. We went to some local grocery stores (4 of them in Coco!), and visited an art gallery and the local hospitals. Ate yummy lunches at the beach, and had the opportunity to see firsthand what kinds of places are available for rent around $500/month. Based on what I experienced in the first few hours there, I am moving there very soon! The beach, the people, the climate, the vibe in general–what’s not to like?? I am willing to put up with some inevitable inconveniences, but know I will never shovel snow again. Miss my daily walks on the beach!!
Ed McKeon says
We too are considering visiting/living in CR, but have so many questions. Would you mind sharing the couples name and email that live there and are from the U.S.?
Sammi says
That’s great you had a wonderful time! 🙂
Laurie says
Hi Sammi: I’m interested in purchasing a house or condo in Costa Rica in the next year or so. Eventually I want to move there. What resources are available for this process for residency. I know you start off with a temporary residence. How long are you able to stay, do you need a VISA. I am starting my own on line business as a Travel Planner and would like to work from Costa Rica in the future.
Sammi says
Hi Laurie,
You can start off by checking the US embassy in Costa Rica’s website, they actually have some very useful info in there to get started. If you end up needing a lawyer or need specific information, ARCR.net is another great resource along with International Living. If all else fails, check out the Expats in Costa Rica Facebook group. Majority of the members are North Americans who have their residency in CR so they’ve been through the process and knows how it works along with contacts.
Jacquelyn says
Great post! Costa Rica has intrigued me–will have to visit someday. Some of the things on your list remind me of India and Jamaica!
Sammi says
Thanks Jacquelyn! I have never been to India and Jamaica but good to know it is sort of similar. Hope you get to visit here one day 🙂
Yvonne Stanford says
Thinking of retiring early; but can you live comfortably in Costa Rica on $1,000 per month. What about the government, health care availability? Are most apartments furnished or have A/C?
Sammi says
Hi Yvonne, we live by the beach and spend about $1200 a month which includes rent and utilities. Depending where you decide to leave, most places are furnished and have A/C. You can find very basic accommodations that can be $300 a month with no furniture or more luxurious “Western” style places ~$600 and up so it all depends on what your standards are. We live very comfortably and nice for our place which we pay $400 a month for. Health care is widely available, foreigners can go to either private or public clinics and if you get your cedula or residency then you have the same health insurance rights as the citizens.